We recently spent a long weekend in Tenby and came back wondering why we don’t do it more often.
When you think of seaside towns, you picture sun, sand and packed pavements. You probably imagine that out of season they turn into quiet, shuttered ghost towns.
That is not what we found at all.
Living in Cardiff, we wanted to feel like we were a world away without actually driving for hours. We looked at countryside cabins and hot tubs, but the weather still felt a bit unpredictable. So we turned our attention to the coast.
Normally, if you try to book somewhere like Tenby at short notice in summer, you either find nothing available, somewhere overpriced, or somewhere miles out of town. It becomes a day trip. You arrive early to beat the queues for the car park and leave before it gets too busy.
And if you fancy a few drinks, one of you ends up sticking to soft drinks because you have to drive home. Maybe you grab a couple of bottles from Harbwr Tenby to take back. Nice, yes. The same as sitting in the pub with a pint in hand? Not quite.
Out of season, it is a different story.
What we booked
We found a lovely Airbnb right in town. Not the cheapest, not the most expensive, but perfect for what we wanted.
Two bedrooms, both with their own ensuite showers. One had a double bed, the other had a double bunk bed which we had never seen before. There was an open plan living and kitchen space with a big sofa, Sky, streaming services and WiFi once we worked out that the handwritten password had a “j” not an “i”.
The kitchen had everything you would expect. Fridge, oven, microwave, kettle, toaster and plenty of plates and glasses. There were even umbrellas and buckets and spades tucked away.
But the real selling point was the view.
From the dining table you could look straight out over North Beach and the harbour. Breakfast and dinner with that view felt special. Exactly what we were after.
Parking was easy too. We had our pick. North Beach Pay and Display off Gas Lane is usually our go to on day trips, but not ideal with luggage. The multistorey is often the cheapest for 24 hours. We opted for Five Arches Car Park as it is flat and better suited if you have a low car. It was £15 for 24 hours, but for us it was worth it.
No circling. No stress. No queues.
What we did
Being out of season, there was less going on and that suited us perfectly.
We had lunch at Billycan. Good choice, good portions, relaxed atmosphere. Exactly what you want on a slow afternoon.
Another day we grabbed fish and chips from D. Fecci & Sons and took them back to the apartment. Eating them at the table overlooking the harbour beat sitting on a windy bench any day.
When the weather held, we walked down towards the lifeboat station and around to the castle. The views are always worth it, whatever the season.
Shopping was one of the biggest surprises. The town felt alive. Independent shops were open and trading well, without the shoulder to shoulder crowds you get in summer.
Some of our favourites included The Nook, packed with lovely homeware and gifts. Equinox, full of stylish clothing and accessories. Jago, which always has something a little different. Joys of Tenby, ideal if you are hunting for that classic seaside keepsake. And Ebb & Flow, which is brilliant for coastal inspired pieces.
Whether you are looking for jewellery, clothes, ornaments, music or Jellycats, Tenby genuinely has you covered. You can easily lose a couple of hours wandering in and out of those shops.
And when it was time to sit down again, there were plenty of options.
We spent some time at Tenby Harbour Brewery. You can head to the brewery itself, where there is seating inside and under cover with heaters. The Six Nations was on when we visited, which added to the atmosphere.
You could also settle into Hope & Anchor with its fireplace and big window seats.
On one evening, we watched Wales play Scotland. Hearing a pub full of people sing the national anthem gave us goosebumps. It has been years since we have experienced that properly.
Later on, the town came alive. Tenby has built a reputation for a lively night scene, and while it was busy, it never felt out of control. It had a good buzz about it.
And the best part?
At the end of the night, we turned down a side street off the high street and were back at our place within minutes. No taxis. No long drive home. No stress.
Why now might be the best time
Visiting Welsh coastal towns out of season gives you space.
Space to park.
Space to book somewhere central.
Space to sit in a pub and actually get a table.
Space to walk the beaches without weaving through crowds.
Yes, the weather can be mixed. Yes, a few places might close midweek. But most of what you need is still there. And in many ways, it feels more authentic.
For us, Tenby at this time of year felt like a proper break. Close enough to home, but far enough to switch off.
And honestly, we might prefer it this way.
