Winter and summer season shouldn’t be dreadful experiences for you. Insulating your home is one of the ways you can make your home comfier and, most importantly, energy-efficient. With proper insulation, your home can remain warmer in winter and cooler in summer while saving some bucks.
In this write-up, we will take you through the process of insulation installation. Let’s plunge in and learn more.
What Do You Need?
To carry out proper insulation, you should have the necessary insulation supply. This is what you need to get started:
Tools
- Utility knife
- Drop cloth
- Drill/driver and bits
- Hard hat
- Tape measure
- Work light
- Putty knife
- Eye protection
- Caulk gun
- Straight Edge
- Dusk mask
- Work gloves
- Screwdriver
- Knee pads(optional)
Materials
- Insulation
- Caulk
- Spray foam insulation
How to Install Insulation
So, where do you start?
Before Installing Insulation
In the home installation, you need to adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions. Before beginning, do the following things:
- Confirm the local building code for R-Value (insulation level) recommendations and any other requirements such as vapor barrier that apply to your region.
- Seal all the spaces allowing unconditioned air into the parts you are insulating. Keep a close eye on the parts where wiring, plumbing, or ductwork enter the space. You would also want to learn more about DIY spray foam insulation and how to apply the caulk in the gaps. In basements and crawlspaces, ensure the foundation doesn’t have cracks. That can compromise the quality of the installation.
- Take the dimensions between the joints (if insulating an attic or floor) or studs (in case of unfinished walls) to determine the right width for the insulation. And if you are applying insulation on framed walls, ensure the insulation has the right thickness for the studs.
- Use Roll Insulation Calculator to get estimates of how much insulation supply (batt or roll) you would need to complete the insulation.
Insulation Installation Steps
Step 1: Cut to Width
For the narrow studs, you should trim down the batt’s width. To achieve that, place the batt on the floor in the cavity’s front and then line up one edge with the studs bay’s inside face.
Next, lay a straight 2×4-in line with the adjoining studs inside face and gently hold it down with one knee.
Using a utility knife, cut alongside the 2×4, trimming the batt with successive surface cuts.
Step 2: Trim To Length
This step involves tucking the insulation material into space and then snugging it against the stud bay’s upper part and edges flush with the studs. Note that you should not compress the batt tightly against the studs as doing so compromises its R-value.
For a perfect fit against the bottom of the space, run the insulation long and then trim it against the lower plate of the wall framing using your utility knife.
Step 3: Deal With Obstructions
For wires, pull part of the batt’s thickness in order to half it. Slide one half behind the wire and then lay the remaining half in front.
When it comes to electrical outlet boxes, you would want to start by installing the batt and then cutting the notch in its edge by use of the box as a guide.
Finally, for the plumbing supply pipes, lay the full thickness of the insulation at the back of the pipe to help protect it from freezing.
Step 4: Add the Vapour Barrier
It is recommended to add a vapor barrier, especially in cold climates. Also called vapor retarder, it prevents condensation that promotes mold growth and reduces the insulation’s R-value. Typically, batts faced with foil or paper come with a vapor barrier built in. Unfaced batts should be covered with breathable sheets such as 6-mil plastic.
Finally, apply sealant bead to studs where the sheets overlap and to the top plate, then tack the sheets every twelve to twenty-four inches to the studs, bottom plate, and top plate.
